Camping at Kulen Mountain – The Coolest way to experience Phnom Kulen National Park
If you’re looking for a unique adventure when you’re in Siem Reap Cambodia, camping at Kulen Mountain is a must do experience. Phnom Kulen National Park is one of the most beautiful and historically important places near Siem Reap. While most people visit on a day trip to see the famous waterfalls, staying overnight takes it to another level – you’ll get cool mountain air, starry skies, and a chance to experience nature at its most peaceful.
To finally get round to something I’ve been meaning to do for years, I recently spent a night camping there with friends, and it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable nights I’ve had in Cambodia. Here’s how our trip went, plus everything you need to know to plan your own unforgettable Kulen Mountain camping adventure.
Why Kulen Mountain is So Special
Kulen Mountain, or Phnom Kulen in Khmer, holds a special place in Cambodian history. This is where King Jayavarman II declared himself the first “God King” in 802 AD, marking the birth of the Khmer Empire. Many locals consider it a sacred place, and you’ll find several ancient temples and carvings throughout the national park.
Phnom Kulen is also incredibly popular with Cambodians as a spiritual pilgrimage site, especially during festivals like Khmer New Year and Pchum Ben. Add in some lush jungle, rivers, and the famous Kulen waterfalls, and it’s easy to see why this area is loved by both locals and tourists.
Getting to Kulen Mountain from Siem Reap
Kulen Mountain is roughly 50 km (31 miles) from Siem Reap, and the drive to the main waterfalls usually takes about 1.5 hours if you take it casually, depending on traffic and road conditions. This is because the actual road up the mountain is in need of some love, and you have to drive pretty slowly.
We left Siem Reap at around 9 AM in our friend’s car. The drive itself is enjoyable enough, taking you through the Angkor Archaeological Park and past Banteay Srei, a stunning pink sandstone temple, and the infamous ‘Pig Street’ where you’ll drive past dozens and dozens of local restaurants selling delicious cooked pig and pork belly. If you’ve never visited Banteay Srei before, it’s well worth stopping along the way to make the most of your trip.
If you are travelling up Kulen Mountain in a car, the journey is pretty straight forward. It’s also pretty fun on a motorbike (preferably a dirt bike!), though we don’t recommend making the journey on a small-engined scooter. The road up the mountain is pretty steep and quite rough at some points. It’s definitely doable, but it won’t be a super pleasant experience, especially if it rains! You can also hire a tour guide/driver in Siem Reap town if you’d prefer to just sit back and take it easy.
Phnom Kulen National Park Entrance Fees & Tickets
To access the national park, you’ll need to buy a ticket at the official entrance gate, which you’ll come to at the base of the Kulen Mountain road, before you make the climb. For foreign visitors purchasing tickets at the gate, the entrance ticket cost is $20 USD. Tickets can also be purchased in advance in Siem Reap town at the ticket office on National Road 6.
Bring cash, as credit cards are not accepted here. You can pay in USD or Khmer Riel and you’ll be provided with physical paper tickets. Keep hold of these, as you’ll need them when you arrive at the top!
One Way Mountain Road System
The main road going to Kulen Mountain from the West (town-side) is one way, operating on a timed schedule. Before 12pm, you can only drive UP the mountain, and after 12pm you can only drive DOWN the mountain.
If you miss the time window, it’ll really put a spanner in the works, so plan accordingly! Leave town with plenty of time to get there.
On our drive up, we stopped at the plateau viewpoint, which offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the countryside. It’s a perfect photo spot before heading deeper into the park. During rainy season, the countryside and jungles are lush and green, so we recommend stopping here.
Visiting the Kulen Mountain Waterfalls
Our first stop was the famous Kulen waterfalls, easily one of the highlights of Phnom Kulen National Park and something you definitely will have seen if you’ve ever done a tour of the park. Three of us were heading on this camping trip, and one of the group had never visited Kulen Mountain before at all! So this was a great opportunity for us to show him the best part of the national park.
As we visited in September, and there had been a lot of rain recently, the waterfall was absolutely roaring, far more impressive than in the dry months. I’ve personally been here many times, but for the first time in my experience, the waterfalls were coming down so hard it wasn’t possible to safely swim at the base of the falls!
While there, we stopped for a tasty local lunch and a couple of cold beers at one of the nearby restaurants. The food was simple but really good, and prices were very reasonable. I paid $6 for a very large portion of Beef Lok Lak (A traditional Cambodian dish), which was pretty good considering you’re on a mountain with very few options!
There are plenty of places in this area to get food and drinks, and there are also some small market areas where you can purchase Cambodian souvenirs or local goods like the honey which is produced in the Kulen Mountain national park.
Disaster Strikes on Kulen Mountain
Okay so that’s obviously a pretty big exaggeration. But, when we got back to the car after visiting the waterfalls, we realised we had a completely flat tire. We must have either hit something on the way up or driven over something sharp! In true Cambodian style, the security guard came to our aid, at which point we discovered the spare wheel in the truck bed was not suitable and couldn’t be used. The friendly security guard scooted off to one of the local villages in search of help – what a hero!
When he came back, he brought with him my new favourite mechanic in the world. After getting the affected wheel off, they took it back to their garage at the village on the back of a scooter, repaired the puncture and brought it back to us. All while we sat with a local vendor for a cold beer – a necessity in such situations!
What initially felt like it could be quite a problem, considering we were stranded on Kulen Mountain, turned out to be a funny story to tell. And we will be forever grateful to the mechanic, who only wanted to charge us $10 for his work and time! Of course, we happily offered both the mechanic and the security guard a tip for helping us.
Camping on Kulen Mountain
From the waterfall area, it was just a 10 minute drive to reach the campsite. There are several campsites in this area, but we opted for one called Ou Sambuor Mealea Phnom Kulen. Click HERE for a google maps link to the exact location. The campsite area consists of several seating areas and bamboo huts, right next to the flowing river! The campsite has very clean toilets, fishing rods and everything you need for a peaceful night.
We rented three tents, each costing $10 per night, which included pillows and bedding. Now, we all know the worst part of camping is having to put up your tent. But here, you can forget about that! The price includes set up, and the campsite staff will get everything ready for you. They place the tents inside elevated wooden huts so you’re off the ground and sheltered from any bad weather.
This meant zero hassle for us – no packing or setting up gear, just pure relaxation!
The staff were fantastic. They brought us drinks, including soft drinks and beer, and we accidentally ordered three whole freshly cooked chickens for dinner. We thought we were ordering chicken dishes, not entire chickens! The chickens were raised on site, and they prepared them to order – the freshest meal you could hope for! Still, we really enjoyed the food, and the owner’s dog enjoyed the leftovers! Pictured below is just 1 of the 3 chickens!
Relaxing by the River
One of the best parts about camping on Kulen Mountain is how peaceful it is away from the hustle of Siem Reap town. After setting up and settling in, we spent the afternoon swimming and relaxing in the river, enjoying the cool, refreshing water. The water level was good due to the time of year and the recent rains. They have fire pits available if you want an evening bonfire.
As the sun went down, we cracked open a few beers and just soaked in the atmosphere. The temperature was perfect – not hot at all, thanks to the higher altitude and the fact that we visited in September, which isn’t a particularly hot month. Usually I find that waking up in a tent is a sweaty experience, so I was dreading the morning, but that wasn’t a problem on Kulen Mountain!
We took another refreshing swim in the river as the evening went on, as there had been some rain further upstream and the water level had risen to a nice level. Luckily, for our stay we had perfect weather, though even if it had rained, it still would have been nice at the campsite as the tents were under cover and there was plenty of covered seating.
👉 Click here to read about Cambodia’s seasons, and the best time to visit
Sunrise Coffee and Heading Home
I woke up early the next morning and sat by the river, enjoying the peaceful view while I waited for my friends to wake up. The camp owner came over and kindly offered me a hot coffee – the perfect way to start the day!
Once my friends woke up, we settled the bill and packed our belongings. One of the great things about this campsite is not having to take down the tents, which the staff handle for you. It’s worth noting that whilst at this campsite, I had great mobile signal (SMART network), so we were easily able to map the route back.
The Journey Back to Siem Reap from Kulen Mountain
Instead of going back down the one way road, we took the back road, which is in better condition and connects to the highway leading toward the new Siem Reap airport. It’s a scenic route and a great option for your return journey. It does take a bit longer, but it means you don’t have to adhere to the Kulen Mountain road one way system, and you can drive pretty quick once you get to the highway.
Useful Tips for Camping at Kulen Mountain
Here’s some great tips for your trip – hopefully they’ll make sure you have a great time:
- Bring cash – no ATMs or card machines in the park. USD or Khmer Riel are both fine!
- Swimming gear is essential – the river and waterfalls are too tempting to skip.
- Bug spray is a useful addition, especially in the evening. However, we had no problems with bugs during our time.
- Pack light – the tents come with bedding, so you don’t need much.
- Arrive before 12PM to drive up the mountain without issues.
- The road can be slippery in rainy season, so drive carefully if you’re on a motorbike or in a small car.
Other Things to See at Kulen Mountain
While camping and the waterfall were the highlights of our trip, Phnom Kulen has a lot more to offer:
– Preah Ang Thom Pagoda – home to the famous reclining Buddha carved into rock.
– The River of a Thousand Lingas (Kbal Spean) – ancient carvings in the riverbed dating back to the Angkor period.
– The Giant Elephant Statue ruins – scattered ruins of giant elephant statues that feel like a mini Angkor jungle adventure. If you can find them that is! Visiting the elephants will require a small hike.
Why You Should Camp at Kulen Mountain
Most visitors to Phnom Kulen only see it on a day tour, but spending the night there is a completely different experience. Once the crowds disappear you’re left with cool mountain air, clear night skies and the relaxing sounds of the river and jungle. You’ll get an incredible sense of peace and solitude you won’t find in the city and you’ll leave Kulen Mountain feeling refreshed and relaxed.
It’s also budget-friendly, with tents at just $10 per night and affordable local food and drinks.
For anyone who loves nature, history, or just wants to escape the city, camping at Kulen Mountain is one of the best things to do in Siem Reap. It’s incredible that we have such a beautiful site so close to the already amazing Siem Reap.
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